Inhorgenta Munich presented the current spring and summer trends already in February, the collections of the exhibitors showing mainly one characteristic: opposites are prevailing this year. Intense colours form a contrast to subtle shades, just like cheerful floral designs to clear geometric forms. Bicolored variants are gaining momentum in the watches & jewellery segment and are increasingly accompanied by new material mixes.
Trends in the jewellery segment – Intense colours and subtle shades
Spring and summer are the ideal seasons for adding a fresh touch shimmering in pastel shades: the colour palette ranges from powdery rose and ecru to light green and blue shades to lilac. Many exhibitors of Inhorgenta Munich take up this trend in their current collections using colour stones like tourmaline, rose quartz, chalcedony, peridot, aquamarine or amethyst. Intense colours like fuchsia, raspberry, aubergine, violet and petrol stand in an exciting contrast with them. The Stuttgart-based company COEUR DE LION, for example, uses certain colours in a very selective way.
“We achieve the appeal of our jewellery by expressive colourfulness and clear design – this can be nicely seen in our new GEO CUBE models”, states Jana Dannenhauer, Head of Marketing. Earthy shades are ranging very high on the popularity scale, too.
Pantone trend color of the year, the brownish-red color shade Marsala. Already a classic as a typical winter color, Marsala is now equally in vogue in the looks of the summer, yellow, white and rose gold adding a light and fresh touch to wine-red stones like garnet, topaz and ruby.
Geometric design and floral patterns
The aesthetics of graphical elements and geometric forms is a fashionable evergreen. Here, the optical focus lies on minimalistic design which often has its roots in architecture – especially in the ‘Bauhaus’ style. Graphically inspired pieces of jewellery become genuine statement pieces when enriched by surprising effects and combinations of materials. Creations by Ernstes Design, for example, masterly incorporate this philosophy.
His passion for reduced forms led the founder and owner of the company, Andreas Ernst, to develop an unmistakable style: “In our collections, clear lines were an essential stylistic device right from the outset.
The cool character of stainless steel as a main material perfectly underlines geometric designs. Suspense is aroused above all by conferring continually new forms of appearance to geometry through its combination with softer elements such as gold coatings or our silk wood. “Romantic, partly colourful blossom ornaments, which are currently ubiquitous, form a clear contrast to the expressive properties of geometric shapes.
Bernd Wolf, for example, shows filigree floral patterns in his current jewellery set ‘Summer dream’: Inspired by the orchid, necklaces, ear studs and rings reflect the shapes of this tropical plant.
“We see blossoms as a symbol for youth, sensual pleasure and zest for life,” states Bernd Wolf. ‘Sterne des Meeres’ (=Stars of the Sea’) is the name of the nature-inspired highlight collection of the Swiss jewellery manufacture FRIEDEN, which was presented for the first time at Inhorgenta Munich 2015. The most eye-catching feature of the earrings and the necklace are cultivated pearls melting into variegated flower ensembles.
Mix of materials and bicoloured looks
Bicolored jewellery is increasingly gaining momentum in 2015. Not only pieces in classic white and yellow gold compounds are highly sought-after, but also stainless steel in combination with rose gold or a mix of ceramics and silver. Compositions of blackened iron and yellow gold are especially impressive. There is a lot of experimentation and improvisation with new materials especially in the wedding rings segment.
A few jewellery manufacturers have already discovered the deep black carbon for themselves. Its structured surface provides an extravagant visual appearance which is contrastingly accentuated by gold or platinum.
At Inhorgenta Munich 2015, the Pforzheim-based jewellery manufacture Fischer presented its third wedding ring collection of elegant creations made of this resistant material. “For our carbon model, apricot gold in combination with the cool black of the carbon has turned out to be a strong-selling combination of materials,” states Mandy Windt, responsible for Marketing & PR at J. Fischer & Sohn KG.
Trends in the watches segment – Slim shapes and retro trend
The trend is towards decent elegance: Flat watch cases and graceful shapes are highly popular for ladies’ watches. In the high-end segment, the timepieces are made of gold, often studded with brilliants.
A good example: the new model of the ‘Diamond Wave Edition’ by EBEL with flowing lines and an elegant profile. Although models in rose gold continue to be as popular as ever, they face increasing competition from stainless steel in feminine shapes – preferably also in the luxury version with brilliant studding. In the men’s accessories segment, the focus is on colourful models with sporty rubber straps, on the one hand, and on watches in retro look and classic golden timepieces, which are ideally suited to the formal business attire.